I am developing a serious crush on this city, steeped as it is in history, academia, culture and unimaginable tragedy. Without last year's snow and ice, it was much easier to explore the museums, churches, university and galleries in the Old Town and lose ourselves in the labyrinthine streets and atmosphere of Kazimierz, once home to a substantial Jewish population.
Walking for miles, dodging the horse drawn cabs, trams and Krakow pigeons. Browsing and buying from the stalls in the Christmas market. Fuelled by apple cake, hot spiced wine, fruit pies, green chai and vodka served in candlelit cellar cafés. Hearing the Heynal, the five-note tune played by a trumpeter four times consecutively each hour from the highest tower of St Mary's Church in the main square. Eating dinner alongside students and residents. Wondering what it would be like to live there.
And cried every night.