love those cupcakes

To the bottom of the world and back (part 3)

 'But if it's peace and quiet you are after, rugged, windswept beauty, with ever-changing light, the most wonderful wildlife and fishing......, then you'll find them all in abundance in the Falklands.'

(Falkland Islands Government, 1973)

Plans to visit Sea Lion island had to be changed due to sea conditions which would have made landing (our first) via the zodiac inflatables a tad tricky.  Instead, feeling somewhat awkward  (too warm, even) in bulky bright red parkas, waterproof boots and life jackets, we found ourselves on Bleaker, a long, thin, mostly flat island situated south of Stanley in East Falkland.

This is actually a privately owned working farm which is also home to several colonies of penguins.  Magellanics, easy to miss whilst exploring the island with their preference for burrowing and nest building under shrubs, the distinctively orange billed Gentoos and, on the more rocky side of the island,  the smaller, cheeky chappie crested Rockhoppers (possibly my favourites of all the penguins we mingled with on the entire trip).  It was the perfect time to visit as the chicks were still evident in the various rookeries and time passed all too quickly as we sat on the rocks, watching the to-ing and fro-ing and attentiveness of the parent birds.  

The following two days were spent sailing the Scotia Sea and then the next landing:  South Georgia.

 

To the bottom of the world and back (part 2)

 So.

Tierra del Fuego. 

Or more specifically its capital, Ushuaia ('Ush-why-a'). 

At the southern tip of the South American mainland.

The southernmost city in the world and, at a distance of 4,000 km north, the city closest to the South Pole.

With a fast growing population and sprawl of housing as Argentina has sought to strengthen its position in the area.

Nudging the border with Chile, Ushuaia is stunningly situated on the Beagle Channel where the Andes meet the ocean.

The so called end of the road.

It was very cold and pouring with rain when we arrived.

And our hand luggage, containing amongst other essentials our passports and jackets, had disappeared. (The overhead lockers in the small plane from Buenos Aires were full when we boarded so our carry-on bags were swiftly removed to be stored in the hold.)

Needless to say, sightseeing was largely limited to whatever could be viewed through the steamed up bus windows.

But the weather is constantly changing in Ushuaia and our main reason for being there was to meet up with the French ship which would take us further south.

That hand luggage?  Miraculously, it was awaiting us in our cabin.  Along with someone else's suitcase.

Next stop:  The Falklands and first encounter with wildlife.

 

 

To the bottom of the world and back (part 1)

First stop, 24 or so hours after dropping off Boo at his holiday home, was Buenos Aires.

Capital of Argentina and associated with Maradona, protests and public demonstrations, Evita, dulce de leche, fileteado, the River Plate, ice cream and tango.

Oh yes, and beef. Vegetarian/vegan food was not easy to find.

With no obvious centre, Buenos Aires has a number of very distinct neighbourhoods, including Recoleta, with its European feel, architecture and cementario, San Telmo, one of the oldest comminities in the city offering a wide choice of tango clubs and the lively and colourful,  if touristy, La Boca.

Most areas were largely walkable though it was very hot and street crime (tourists are a main target) is a real problem.  I have to admit I didn't fall in love with Buenos Aires but it was worth visiting and handy for catching a flight to our next destination:  Tierra del Fuego.