Final day in South Georgia. An early morning zodiac ride to Gold Harbour, at the southern end of this stunning island, with the Bertrab Glacier at its head. Tussock hillside, hanging glaciers and vertical cliffs which rise straight out of the sea create a perfect backdrop for the gobsmacking abundance of wildlife. Along with the brown Skuas, which were on constant lookout for scraps, we walked amongst fur seals, enormous battle scarred elephant seals, Gentoo families, King penguins. Hundreds, probably thousands, of King penguins. Penguins as far as the eye could see. Some still moulting, some with the telltale bulges of eggs still being incubated, some with their giant chicks, the so called Oakum Boys, sporting brown fur coats. Unforgettable sights, sounds, smells.